In order to place the table of contents without a section name "Contents"
the memoir class uses \tableofcontents* rather than \tableofcontents.
However, `org-latex-toc-command` is documented as:
  "LaTeX command to set the table of contents, list of figures, etc.
This command only applies to the table of contents generated with
the toc:nil option, not to those generated with #+TOC keyword."
Which is confusing in two ways, first that toc:nil doesn't generate a table
of contents, and that it doesn't seem to provide any way of getting the
string to be used?

As a workaround, I could use the latex command directly, but that means not
having it available in, for example, an html export.

Is there a workaround I'm missing?